Nepal Issues Permits to Seven Expeditions for Spring Ascent of Mt Everest

Nepal’s Department of Tourism has begun issuing climbing permits for this year’s spring mountaineering season on Mt Everest. So far, seven expedition teams made up of 77 climbers, including 17 women and 60 men, have received permission to attempt the ascent of the world’s highest peak. According to Liladhar Awasthi, Director at the Department, a total of 198 climbers from various countries, including Nepal, have been authorized to climb Everest. In addition to Everest, permits have also been issued for climbs on 29 other peaks.

The Department has confirmed that 66 climbers from six groups have received permits for Annapurna I, while another group of eight climbers is set to ascend Annapurna V. Two separate teams of 15 climbers each have obtained permission to climb Makalu.

Meanwhile, preparations are underway to open the route to Everest’s Camp II. However, progress has been hindered by strong winds in the Sagarmatha region over the past two days, with gusts reaching up to 35 kilometers per hour and ice fragments falling in the area. In the Khumbu Icefall—a notoriously dangerous stretch between Base Camp and Camp I—efforts to fix the route continue. The Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee has deployed a team of 10 experienced climbers, known as icefall doctors, to install ladders, anchors, and secure a safe path for the expeditions. So far, four ladders and twelve anchors have been fixed, covering a route of approximately 1,100 meters.

Once the route to Camp II is secured, rope-fixing operations from Camp II to the summit will begin under the supervision of the Mountaineering Expeditions Operators’ Association. An eight-member team led by Ashok Lama has already been assigned to carry out this task. The management of rope-fixing and route-making for this season has been entrusted to 8K Expedition Company.

Spring is regarded as the most favorable season for high-altitude climbing in Nepal, especially for Everest, which attracts climbers from around the world. With preparations well underway, the season is expected to see a high number of international summit attempts in the coming weeks.